Perdino's of Grosse Ile

Molly Abraham: Watch for the image of a swordfish on the sign as you drive along Macomb Street on the island called Grosse Ile. That marks the spot where the well-run Perdino's has drawn a loyal clientele for 22 years. The menu, as that fish suggests, features seafood as well as steaks, rack of lamb, roast duck and tournedos Rossini, all served at dinner with accompaniments including a relish tray, soup or salad and vegetables. There isn't a water view, but the atmosphere is cozy and welcoming and service is very good. Lunch is served week days, with dinner every night. Grosse Ile is pretty much an unknown quantity to much of the metro area, but Downriver residents have Perdino's on their dining list. First timers are advised to call for directions; they'll be given politely and clearly, probably by proprietor Perry Tsipis himself. A more dedicated restaurateur would be hard to find.